Serves 8

Prep time 30 mins, cook 10 mins (plus cooling, curing)

You'll need to begin this recipe a day ahead.

Dry-roast lemon rind, fennel seeds and coriander seeds until fragrant (30 seconds), combine with salt and remaining spices and set aside to cool.

Place a piece of plastic wrap on a work surface, scatter over half the spice mix, top with fish, scatter over remaining spice mix, fold plastic wrap to enclose, then refrigerate on a tray for flavours to develop (8 hours-overnight). Remove wrap, brush off mix, rinse briefly in cold water, pat dry and cut into 4cm pieces.

Heat oil in a saucepan over medium heat, add vegetables and stir occasionally until tender (5-7 minutes). Add milk and fish, bring to the simmer, then set aside to cool completely. Strain (discard liquid) and transfer fish and vegetables to a food processor. Process to combine and season to taste (be careful not to over-salt).

Combine processed fish, crème fraîche, chives and lemon juice in a bowl, adjusting seasoning to taste. Drizzle with olive oil and serve with toasted brioche and lemon wedges.